Veranda Syrah 2009 - Chile

One of the great things about wine is that there is always something new. On the other side, that is also one of the downsides.

Shortly after tasting the 2008 Veranda Syrah a few weeks ago, I went to look for more, only to find that the vintage had changed. And I'll be honest; I don't spend my hours studying vintage charts to know how the 2009 may compare to the 2008. Outside of a few areas (such as Burgundy or Bordeaux), or extreme years (such as 2002 in the Rhone Valley), I think that other factors about a specific wine can have enough of an effect to outweigh a generalization of vintages. So while I was disappointed to not get more of the 2008, I figured that it's a good excuse to try the new vintage.

Well, I have to admit, I was disappointed. Part of this is certainly due to the fact that the 2008 was outstanding. And it's not a bad wine. Lot's of raspberry and currant on both the nose and palate, with just a trace of vanilla. There is a slight bit of spice, but it's not as well integrated as with the 08. But the biggest difference is that this new vintage is quite a bit lighter, and as a result, doesn't quite stand up to the 14.5% alcohol level. On top  of that, the balance seems slightly off (compared to the 08), being a little more acidic.

The acidity is not a bad thing when pairing with food. It didn't quite work with the chicken kebabs I grilled up tonight, but I don't see that as a flaw of the wine, rather a poor choice of pairing (to be frank, I had my doubts, but couldn't come up with anything better). With a steak, I think the pairing would have been much better.
And I think that the balance will probably improve with time. After all, this bottle has been on the shelf just long enough to not have to worry about bottle shock (a note here; don't try a new vintage the day it shows up; often, a couple of weeks will make a big difference). But while the acidity may come into line, there is no hope for the lighter body.

Overall, a good, but not great, wine, especially if served with food or allowed to breath for several hours. But where the '08 was a great value, the '09 is not on par with other syrah/shiraz of the $18-$20 price range.

If you prefer the lighter/more acidic style of this grape (such as Croze Hermitage), you'll probably enjoy this and should consider trying it. But otherwise, and especially if your taste runs to the big Barossa Shiraz, not recommended unless you find it on sale.

Aramis Shiraz McLaren Vale 2006 - Australia

Aramis has been a favorite of mine for years, so I was excited to try the new vintage. Happily, it was not disappointing. The nose is powerful, with a lot of vanilla, cherry, and spice. Medium to full bodied, this wine caresses the palate, rather than overwhelming it the way many Aussie Shirazs do (especially those from Barossa). Cherry and raspberry upfront, with a delightful amount of vanilla and spice. The finish is dry, with a bit of earthy tobacco.
This is a good example of what a McLaren Vale Shiraz is all about; richness with elegance, rather than overwhelming power. But it will stand up to just about anything; while I had it with some cheese (which worked very well), it would be a great match for a steak, or just about anything off the "barbie".

Highly recommended. At $15, this is a great value.

Cloudbreak Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2010 - California

Sometimes, you just want a refreshing wine that tastes good, without thinking about every sip. Cloudbreak Chard is perfect for those times.
Since it's barrel fermented, there is a nice bit of oak, but it's not overwhelming, and is balanced well by the fruit and creaminess. Not overly complex, but very pleasant.
I first discovered this wine in a blind tasting, where it beat out Kendall Jackson, La Crema, and Muirwood's single vineyard. I was surprised when I found out that this was the one I liked best, as it is by far the least expensive, being only $8.

If you're looking for a lighter bodied Chard with a nice bit of oakiness and creaminess, or especially if you're a KJ or La Crema fan, this one is worth giving a try.

Recommended.

Syrah from Chile - Veranda Syrah Estate bottled Apalta Vineyard 2008

I've had only a few Syrahs from Chile, and one winemaker has told me that while they have some great vines, they have problems selling it, and end up blending most of it into Cabs or other wines.
Well, the Veranda may not change that by itself, but it's a step in the right direction. Lots of bright raspberry and cherry flavors with undertones of dark fruit, along with a dose of vanilla and a nice bit of black pepper. If I didn't know better, I might have guessed that this was an Aussie Shiraz, perhaps from Heathcote. More elegant and a little lighter body than a Barrossa wine of this depth, but more spice than anything from the Limestone Coast area.
But there's a level of complexity that I've not found in any Aussie wine at this $18 price point; there's almost a little hint of Cote Rotie hiding behind the rich fruit (in a way, not surprising; many Chilean Syrahs are from cuttings from the upper Rhone valley). Like I'm finding in many better Chilean wines, this nicely bridges the gap between traditional Old World (French) wines and the typical New World (California or Australia) fruit bombs.

It does need some time to breath; I recommend using a Vinturi or decanting. Better yet, grab a few bottles and lay them down for a few years.

Serve this one with anything off the grill, from burgers to filet mignon. Or just have it by itself; it drinks great. I gave this 92 points, a level I don't often get to.

Very highly recommended

Rose d' Anjou from Bougrier

Rose wine has gotten a bad rap, from Lancer's and Mateus of the 60s to the white zinfandel of recent years (which is generally considered a "blush", not a "rose", as roses are dry wines). Many people see the color of the wine, and don't even want to try it. Their loss.
Thankfully, Rose is making a comeback and becoming more popular than ever. The Bougrier Rose d' Anjou is one of my favorites; it has a little more sweetness than most roses, although that is still less than most California Chards, so don't be scared off by the fact that it's not as dry as a Tavel or Provance rose.
The nose is light, mainly of fresh strawberries. On the palate, there is an explosion  of fruit, mostly strawberry, but a little raspberry mixed in; with just enough sweetness to keep it from being tart.

I would suggest this wine as a great summer afternoon, sitting on the porch type wine. But it's also food friendly, great with light meals, and actually worked remarkably well with a rather spicy Indian vegetarian dish. It's incredibly versatile, and works well with burgers off the grill, or equally well with turkey and stuffing, so keep it in mind come Thanksgiving time.

As a $10 refreshing wine, Recommended.

Dr Loosen "Dr. L" Riesling 2009

Having tasted a wine made by Dr. Loosen recently (J.L. Wolf), I figured that it was time that I tried his basic QbA level wine, a wine which seems to always be popular.
Sadly, compared to other similar priced wines, I found this rather disappointing. A moderate level of sweetness, about the level I expect of a Mosel QbA, but that was pretty much about it. The typical flavors were there, but rather muted, and the lack of acidity allows the sweetness to become overly dominant.

If you want a nice slightly sweet wine, a German QbA Riesling, especially one from the Mosel, is a great way to go. But this particular one doesn't quite make the grade. Instead, I suggest a bottle from Eiffel-Pfeffer (I may not have that spelling right; sorry), or Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler, which cost only a dollar or so more, but deliver a much better experience.

Not Recommended.

Wines of Chile Grand Tasting -part 3 - Reds

Reviewing the whites was easy, at least compared to reviewing the red wines from this great tasting of wines from Chile. Lots of great examples in every price range, from $10 to $100. Too many to describe; I can only give some highlights.

From Carmen, their Gran Reserva Carmenere is beautiful. It has rich fruit, and manages to avoid the all too common "green pepper" taste that is present in too many Carmeneres (which I believe comes from slightly unripe fruit). Carmen also has a nice Gran Reserva Cabernet, and Petite Sirah. Both of which are good solid wines.

While those wines are in Carmen's newer, more fruit forward, style, their Gold Reserve 2007 is classic "old style" Carmen, perfectly bridging the style gap between austere Old World reds, and the overpowering "fruit bombs" of many New World wineries. One that I highly recommend.

Vina Carta Vieja has some great values. The Prestige Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is 100% hand picked Cab, with lots of nice fruit. At $16, it rivals many Cabs from California that have much higher pricetags.

Their "G7" line of Cab and Malbec are $11 bottles that represent great everyday values.

It's rare that I find a Carmenere that I fall in love with, but the Grial Carmenere 2007 from Global Vineyard is one of them. I'm just not quite sure if it's worth the $55 price.

Millaman had a unique wine; a Limited Reserve Zinfandel from the Maipo Valley. To me, this tasted like it could be from Dry Creek Valley in California, although it was perhaps just a little lighter in body. An outstanding wine, I think it would work well with Turkish or maybe even Indian food. At only $18, I look forward to having a chance to buy this wine. 

The rest of the Millaman line was also very good, including a spicy Carmenere and a nice Cab/Merlot blend that is only $11. Currently, their wines are not imported, but after seeing how good they are, I have to believe that will soon change.

Sharing the title for most unusual wine was the Santa Digna Estelado from Miguel Torres Chile. This is a sparkling rose made from 100% Pais, the grape that used to dominate in Chile (and California, called "Mission"). Very dry, and slightly tart, this is not a wine for most casual drinkers; but of course, every wine geek such as myself has to try it.

Concha y Toro of course showed many nice wines. Their best were the Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, which at $22 is a perennial great value, and the Terrunyo Carmenere, which was a line I had not previously heard of. The Terrunyo was a blend of 87% Carmenere, 11% Cab Sauv, and 2% Cab Franc. At  $38, I think this was the best wine of the show in the Under $50 range. 

Sadly, the 2007 Don Melchor was not impressive. Perhaps if I hadn't tasted the incredible Terrunyo right before, I would have thought it wonderful. Or perhaps it simply needs more time. Either way, I was a little disappointed in it, especially considering that it's now going for nearly $100/bottle.

From Lapostolle, great wines as usual, with the Casa Lapostolle Carmenere 2009 tasting great (and for only $12) and the Cuvee Alexandre Carmenere tasting even better. 

Continuing their Carmenere trend, the 2008 Clos Apalta is 73% Carmenere (although this may be a misprint; the figures I have don't add up to 100). Thankfully, this wine did not disappoint, with a depth and richness that make a lasting impression. I thought that the Clos Apalta was going to be my favorite wine of the show, until....

I tasted the Ossa Sixth Generation 2006 from Vina La Rosa. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Carmenere, this is a wine that could only come from Chile, but one that pays respect to the finest wines in the world. The complexity is beyond description (it didn't help that this was near the end of 4 hours of tasting; the fact that it could wake up my tired taste buds is an even bigger statement). Incredible silkyness, with lots of dark fruits, spice, and vanilla, and a finish that didn't want to stop. This was the perfect wine to finish the day with. The only downside is that this is another wine that is currently not imported into the US. 

Overall, a fantastic tasting, with lots of fabulous wines, and very few disappointments. My thanks to the organizers and producers, who did a great job.