Sunday, April 17, 2011

Chablis

It's odd. For years, I've had an appreciation for white wines from Burgundy, often a Pouilly-Fuisse or Macon, but at times a Meursault or Chassagne-Montrachet. But until tonight, I had never had a Chablis.

The wine of choice was limited by price, so at $20, I got a standard Chablis from Domaine L. Chatelain. Not a Grande or Premier Cru, but just the basic level Chablis, with no vineyard indication.

While I had not tasted a Chablis, I know the classic descriptions. And to a large extent, this fits; nice green apple and mineral on the nose as well as the palate, and a slight bit of lime on the finish. Quite crisp, as a result of a balanced acidity and nice bit of mineral.

But I was a little disappointed that, while it tastes nice, this wine lacks much complexity. While I realize that $20 is the low end for a Chablis, I still expect a little more going on in a wine that sells at that price point. Still, with a meal of fish, or something with a cream sauce, this wine could make a good pairing. But by itself, it's rather plain and lacking.

I can't yet say for sure how typical of a Chablis this is, since I haven't tasted others. It's quite possible (in fact, probable) that I simply don't care so much for the style of wine that is made in Chablis; crisp and bracing as opposed to rich and lush like is found further south.

Since this is a new style of wine for me, I'm not going to make a recommendation or non-recommendation on it. If you like a crisp style of wine, I'd love to hear your opinion on this one. But I probably won't be buying another bottle for myself.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Shingleback McLaren Vale Shiraz 2007

This was one of those wines that was alluring from the beginning. Before I even poured a glass, the aroma was very enticing. Once it was in the glass, the nose was very strong, with hints of currant and spice, much as would be expected from a shiraz from the McLaren Vale area of Australia.
On the palate, it is a little surprising; the flavor is quite intense, although it is not as full bodied as might be expected for a wine of 14.5% abv. Flavors of both red and black berries dominate, with only a hint of spice.
But while the first sip is quite nice, it is spoiled by both high acidity and a lack of complexity. While the 2006 version had a great amount of depth, the 2007 is more of a one dimensional wine; nice in flavor, but too simple to be exciting. And the higher than expected acidity makes it more of a food wine than a cocktail sipper, although aeration helped to calm that aspect a bit. With a nice steak, or perhaps even a pot-roast, the acidity would be a welcome change from the typical Aussie shiraz, drinking it on its own it comes across a little tart.

Overall, drinkable and enjoyable, but not a wine that I would consider worth the $20 price point, although it's still a step up from what you would expect to find in the $10-13 range. This is in contrast to the 2006 vintage, which was wonderful with deep complexity. If you can get your hands on the 2006, snap it up. And if you're looking for a nice wine to have with a steak off the grill, consider the 2007. But otherwise, give this one a pass and try a different shiraz.

Not recommended, unless you can get it on sale, or need a shiraz with higher acidity to go with a steak or other rich dish.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

St. Amant Old Vine Zinfandel - Lodi

I've long been a fan of zinfandel; I love the rich body, the big fruit, the spice and smokiness, and the silky texture. St. Amant 2008 has it all. There is plenty of fruit, but it's not a fruit bomb like you might expect from Amador or Sierra Foothills. This wine is about structure. There are notes of raspberry, blackberry, currant, and maybe a hint of dried plum. On top of that is a nice coating of vanilla, with a hint of smoke, and just enough spice on the finish to make you want more. And with the earthiness that only comes from Lodi.

I don't usually think of wines in these terms, but this is a sultry wine; up front, it's very appealing, but as you enjoy it, you realize that it has more depth than you could have expected. And unlike many wines, it's not tiring; each glass is better than the last.

I'm drinking this wine by itself, and it's great like that, but it would work very nicely with a steak off the grill or other robust meats, or with a nice plate of cheese. And while there is a risk that it could overpower simple dishes like roast chicken that you might often choose a zin to accompany, this wine is one that could turn a simple meal into something special.

$20. I gave it 90 points. 

Highly Recommended.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

Macchia "Delicious" Barbera 2009

Macchia is a winery that seems to specialize in BIG wines, mainly from the Lodi area. So far, I've had two of their zins, and a wonderful Sangiovese. Tonight I tried their Barbera. As might be expected, it was a great match for the lasagna I had for dinner. But unlike many Italian Barberas, it also drinks very well on its own. Weighing in at 15.4% abv, this is a true California wine, with rich body and a silky smooth texture.
On the nose, it presents a lot of tart cherry, blackberry, and spice, with slight notes of tar. On the palate, it is almost explosive; while there are hints of cherry, most of the fruit flavor is dark berries, but there is also a nice structure of earthy flavors, with tobacco and coffee being the main components. While not as dry as many Italian versions of the wine, it is still a dry wine, with plenty of acidity to stand up to a hearty meal.

This wine is a real delight to drink, and at $20, it's a great choice for making an Italian meal something special, or just to drink by itself; although I might have a slight preference for the Sangiovese.

Highly Recommended

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Abracadabra red wine from Washington

Abracadabra is a new (at least to me) red blend from Brian Carter Cellars. Since I was familiar with Brian Carter from his days at Apex, I was quite excited when I saw this new wine from his current venture.I'm not even sure what's in this wine, as it doesn't say on the label, and the flavors are well enough balanced that there are no predominant flavors that indicate a particular grape (and IMO, this is the way a good blend should be).

As you might expect from a wine from the Columbia Valley, this wine is more about elegance than about power. At first, I wasn't sure too about this one, as it is a little reserved for even a Washington wine; I thought there might be a little more intensity, along the lines of the Apex wines. But as I drank it, it started to grow on me. Then once I had some cheese and salami to go with it, it really showed it's strengths. Nice raspberry and other red fruit flavors, with just a hint of oaky vanilla. It's definitely about the elegance and style; if you are looking for a fruit bomb, this is not the wine for you (in fact the wife had only a partial glass). And while I probably wouldn't have this as a wine to drink on its own, I think it would work very well as part of an elegant meal, like a nice filet mignon or similar delicate meat.

I'm looking forward to seeing more of Brian's wines, but since I tend to drink more wine sitting on the sofa watching TV than with elegant meals, I probably won't get this one again. However, if you are planning a nice dinner, or if you want a wine that makes a nice transition between New World and Old World styles, this is a good wine for you.

Overall, a very well made wine; the question is more about the style than the quality. Recommended for those drinkers looking for elegance.