Sunday, April 10, 2011

St. Amant Old Vine Zinfandel - Lodi

I've long been a fan of zinfandel; I love the rich body, the big fruit, the spice and smokiness, and the silky texture. St. Amant 2008 has it all. There is plenty of fruit, but it's not a fruit bomb like you might expect from Amador or Sierra Foothills. This wine is about structure. There are notes of raspberry, blackberry, currant, and maybe a hint of dried plum. On top of that is a nice coating of vanilla, with a hint of smoke, and just enough spice on the finish to make you want more. And with the earthiness that only comes from Lodi.

I don't usually think of wines in these terms, but this is a sultry wine; up front, it's very appealing, but as you enjoy it, you realize that it has more depth than you could have expected. And unlike many wines, it's not tiring; each glass is better than the last.

I'm drinking this wine by itself, and it's great like that, but it would work very nicely with a steak off the grill or other robust meats, or with a nice plate of cheese. And while there is a risk that it could overpower simple dishes like roast chicken that you might often choose a zin to accompany, this wine is one that could turn a simple meal into something special.

$20. I gave it 90 points. 

Highly Recommended.

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