Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Rose d' Anjou from Bougrier

Rose wine has gotten a bad rap, from Lancer's and Mateus of the 60s to the white zinfandel of recent years (which is generally considered a "blush", not a "rose", as roses are dry wines). Many people see the color of the wine, and don't even want to try it. Their loss.
Thankfully, Rose is making a comeback and becoming more popular than ever. The Bougrier Rose d' Anjou is one of my favorites; it has a little more sweetness than most roses, although that is still less than most California Chards, so don't be scared off by the fact that it's not as dry as a Tavel or Provance rose.
The nose is light, mainly of fresh strawberries. On the palate, there is an explosion  of fruit, mostly strawberry, but a little raspberry mixed in; with just enough sweetness to keep it from being tart.

I would suggest this wine as a great summer afternoon, sitting on the porch type wine. But it's also food friendly, great with light meals, and actually worked remarkably well with a rather spicy Indian vegetarian dish. It's incredibly versatile, and works well with burgers off the grill, or equally well with turkey and stuffing, so keep it in mind come Thanksgiving time.

As a $10 refreshing wine, Recommended.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Dr Loosen "Dr. L" Riesling 2009

Having tasted a wine made by Dr. Loosen recently (J.L. Wolf), I figured that it was time that I tried his basic QbA level wine, a wine which seems to always be popular.
Sadly, compared to other similar priced wines, I found this rather disappointing. A moderate level of sweetness, about the level I expect of a Mosel QbA, but that was pretty much about it. The typical flavors were there, but rather muted, and the lack of acidity allows the sweetness to become overly dominant.

If you want a nice slightly sweet wine, a German QbA Riesling, especially one from the Mosel, is a great way to go. But this particular one doesn't quite make the grade. Instead, I suggest a bottle from Eiffel-Pfeffer (I may not have that spelling right; sorry), or Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler, which cost only a dollar or so more, but deliver a much better experience.

Not Recommended.

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Wines of Chile Grand Tasting -part 3 - Reds


Reviewing the whites was easy, at least compared to reviewing the red wines from this great tasting of wines from Chile. Lots of great examples in every price range, from $10 to $100. Too many to describe; I can only give some highlights.

From Carmen, their Gran Reserva Carmenere is beautiful. It has rich fruit, and manages to avoid the all too common "green pepper" taste that is present in too many Carmeneres (which I believe comes from slightly unripe fruit). Carmen also has a nice Gran Reserva Cabernet, and Petite Sirah. Both of which are good solid wines.
While those wines are in Carmen's newer, more fruit forward, style, their Gold Reserve 2007 is classic "old style" Carmen, perfectly bridging the style gap between austere Old World reds, and the overpowering "fruit bombs" of many New World wineries. One that I highly recommend.

Vina Carta Vieja has some great values. The Prestige Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is 100% hand picked Cab, with lots of nice fruit. At $16, it rivals many Cabs from California that have much higher pricetags.
Their "G7" line of Cab and Malbec are $11 bottles that represent great everyday values.

It's rare that I find a Carmenere that I fall in love with, but the Grial Carmenere 2007 from Global Vineyard is one of them. I'm just not quite sure if it's worth the $55 price.

Millaman had a unique wine; a Limited Reserve Zinfandel from the Maipo Valley. To me, this tasted like it could be from Dry Creek Valley in California, although it was perhaps just a little lighter in body. An outstanding wine, I think it would work well with Turkish or maybe even Indian food. At only $18, I look forward to having a chance to buy this wine. 
The rest of the Millaman line was also very good, including a spicy Carmenere and a nice Cab/Merlot blend that is only $11. Currently, their wines are not imported, but after seeing how good they are, I have to believe that will soon change.

Sharing the title for most unusual wine was the Santa Digna Estelado from Miguel Torres Chile. This is a sparkling rose made from 100% Pais, the grape that used to dominate in Chile (and California, called "Mission"). Very dry, and slightly tart, this is not a wine for most casual drinkers; but of course, every wine geek such as myself has to try it.

Concha y Toro of course showed many nice wines. Their best were the Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, which at $22 is a perennial great value, and the Terrunyo Carmenere, which was a line I had not previously heard of. The Terrunyo was a blend of 87% Carmenere, 11% Cab Sauv, and 2% Cab Franc. At  $38, I think this was the best wine of the show in the Under $50 range. 
Sadly, the 2007 Don Melchor was not impressive. Perhaps if I hadn't tasted the incredible Terrunyo right before, I would have thought it wonderful. Or perhaps it simply needs more time. Either way, I was a little disappointed in it, especially considering that it's now going for nearly $100/bottle.

From Lapostolle, great wines as usual, with the Casa Lapostolle Carmenere 2009 tasting great (and for only $12) and the Cuvee Alexandre Carmenere tasting even better. 
Continuing their Carmenere trend, the 2008 Clos Apalta is 73% Carmenere (although this may be a misprint; the figures I have don't add up to 100). Thankfully, this wine did not disappoint, with a depth and richness that make a lasting impression. I thought that the Clos Apalta was going to be my favorite wine of the show, until....

I tasted the Ossa Sixth Generation 2006 from Vina La Rosa. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Carmenere, this is a wine that could only come from Chile, but one that pays respect to the finest wines in the world. The complexity is beyond description (it didn't help that this was near the end of 4 hours of tasting; the fact that it could wake up my tired taste buds is an even bigger statement). Incredible silkyness, with lots of dark fruits, spice, and vanilla, and a finish that didn't want to stop. This was the perfect wine to finish the day with. The only downside is that this is another wine that is currently not imported into the US. 

Overall, a fantastic tasting, with lots of fabulous wines, and very few disappointments. My thanks to the organizers and producers, who did a great job.

Wines of Chile Grand Tasting -part 2 - Best Kept Secrets

First of all, I want to thank Fred Dexheimer, MS, for his great presentation of "Chile's Best Kept Secrets". The two whites and six reds we tasted were enough to make the entire day worthwhile.

For whites, we started off with Meli Dry Riesling 2010. Very dry, with a slight hint of petrol on the nose, and lots of citrus lime on the palate. Were I guessing, I would have picked this as being from Australia; the dryness and citrus fit that style. I haven't had enough Chilean Rieslings yet to pick out a distinctive style. I admit, this was not a favorite of mine, as I am more a fan of German style off-dry to sweet rieslings than of the Aussie dry style. Does anyone in Chile make a sweet Riesling?
Next was Santa Rita Medalla Real Chardonnay. A great example of where Chilean Chards seem to be heading. Limestone soil gives it plenty of acid, and the palate has mineral notes complementing the pear flavors. This could be the New World's answer to Burgundy.

Falernia Syrah Reserve 2007 is the first wine of any type that I've had from Elqui Valley. I thought they only grew grapes for Pisco, but this proves that they can make substantial wines also. A very classic example of the textbook descriptions of Syrah; black pepper, spice, earth, smoke, and a nose that is best described as "bacon fat" (this was especially true after tasting the other wines then coming back). A powerful wine, worthy of a nice steak from the grill; a wine that doesn't waste time being elegant. Just pure powerful Syrah. Amazing for a wine of only $15.
Next we tasted De Martino's "El Leon", a blend of 90% Carignan. Yes, Carignan. With a touch of Malbec and Carmenere. Talk about a secret; I've never had a wine of 90% Carignan from anywhere. Lot's of tart cherry, a little dried fruit, and more flavors I never quite figured out. Rich but elegant; I'd love a nice filet mignon with this, but I also think that I could drink a whole bottle by itself (and by myself; not sure that I'd want to share!) At $40, this was to me one of the stars of the whole tasting.
Anka Parqua II 2007 is almost a classic Bordeaux blend, except for Malbec being replace with Syrah. The Syrah character comes through just enough to show that this is not a wine from Bordeaux, but were it not for that, you could have fooled me into believing it was a classified growth.
Emiliana Coyam 2008 is another great blend, with much more Carmenere. Grown biodynamically, a great wine from the Colcahgua Valley. I just wish that the Petit Verdot had shown through a little more, but then again, I'm a big fan of that grape.
The special tasting concluded with two vintages of Casa Real by Santa Rita, the current 2007 release, and the inaugural 1998 vintage. I have to admit, I found the 2007 rather disappointing; but the 1998 was fantastic. I just hope that the 07 simply needs some more aging to show its beauty.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Wines of Chile Grand Tasting -part 1 - whites

Yesterday, I got to participate in a large tasting of Chilean wines. 60 producers, over 300 wines, and only 4 hours. I tasted a lot of wines (lost count; maybe 70-80), but missed a bunch that I would have loved to have tried.

I started with a few whites, mainly Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Sauv Blancs were hit-and-miss; while they all had the characteristic Chilean muskiness, which I like in small amounts, many winemakers seem to be following the trend of New Zealand producers, and making their Sauv Blancs very grapefruity. Personally, I don't care too much for grapefruit, and if I want a wine like that, I'll go for one from New Zealand. I'd prefer to have something really different to choose.
For the Sauv Blancs, the best I tasted were Las Mulas 2010 from Miguel Torres, and Millaman Estate Reserve Sauv Blanc, which is not yet available in the US. The offering from MontGras was also very nice, tasting even more old style than the others, with a nice hint of grassiness, and very clean.

With the Chardonnays, I was very pleasantly surprised. Until this tasting, I'd never found a Chilean Chard that I really cared for. But it seems that Chilean winemakers are finding new ways of treating Chardonnay, with the trend seeming to be 4-8 months oak aging, but no malolactic fermentation. The result is wines that are elegant and crisp, stylistcally  falling somewhere between some of the better Sonoma Coast Chards, and those from Burgundy. And of course, since they are from Chile, the values are much better than either, with several great examples under $20.
My favorites were Carmen's Grand Reserva 2010, and Marques de Casa Concha 2009 from the Limari Valley; both rich and elegant. Also worth a mention is the offering from William Cole, which while not quite as rich as the others, at a price of only $11, represents a great value.

But my biggest revelation was late in the day, when I discovered a couple of Pedro Ximenez wines. I'm so used to thinking of this as a super-sweet Sherry, that I forget that it is a nice crisp white. I tasted two, one from Vina Falernia, and the second from Geo wines, their Cucao PX. Both are from the Elqui Valley, and area more known for growing grapes for Pisco. Both are excellent, with the Cucao barely coming out ahead in my view.
These remind me most of Torrontes from Argentina, but not as floral, and a little softer, although still plenty of refreshing acidity. I'll have to try them again to be sure, since the experience of drinking a bottle is very different from taking a few sips at a tasting, but I think that this may be my new favorite white wine. Well worth searching for!

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Oak Grove Sauvignon Blanc

Allergy season has been rough; lots of days where my sense of taste and smell just aren't there. I find that a glass of whisky helps a lot, but it's still not fun.
Thankfully, the rains have come, and made things better. So tonight I opened a bottle of wine, a 2010 Oak Grove Sauvignon Blanc from California. This is an inexpensive ($8) bottle, but it delivers more than you might expect. It's light and refreshing, with quite a bit of lime, a hint of grassiness, and a surprisingly pleasant touch of banana on the finish. None of the grapefruit or musk that some people find objectionable in many Sauvignon Blancs, especially those from New Zealand.
It's not incredibly complex, but it's simplicity and cleanness are part of the charm.
A great summertime refresher, good with a salad or hors d'Ĺ“uvres, or just for sitting on the patio when you want to enjoy a glass rather than think about it.


Recommended.


Oak Grove wines have limited availability. Check their website at http://www.oakgrovewines.com/wines.php to find it near you.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

J.L. Wolf Riesling 2009 - great German white

I love a good German Riesling, and especially those from the Mosel river valley. But the J.L. Wolf, from the  Wachenheimer area of Pfalz, is enough to make me reconsider my favorite source.
This wine is made by the famous Dr. Loosen; the same Dr. Loosen who has teamed up with American producer Ch. Ste. Michelle to produce "Eroica". I don't know if more credit goes to the producer or the area, but the combination is outstanding.
Lots of peach and honeysuckle on the nose, along with what I think is best described as lychee; the overall effect rather intense. Full flavored, with typical riesling flavors of apricot and honey, but also with a hint of orangy citrus. The finish has a bit of minerality, but not as pronounced as I would expect from a riesling from the central Mosel (say around Graach or Bernkastel); and no petrol. But the floralness and complexity far exceed what I would expect from a QbA level riesling; in fact, there is more complexity in this wine than most Kabinetts that I have tasted.
Being only a little sweet, this wine is quite versatile. It was excellent with a cheese platter of Brie and Manchego, but I think that it would also be a great wine with typical picnic foods, spicy Thai food, or for Thanksgiving or similar feast. At $17, a little more expensive than most QbA level wines, but with good reason; it's worth it.

Highly recommended.

Abbeyville Napa Valley Fume Blanc 2009

What a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc.Unlike all too many modern day Sauvignon Blanc wines, Abbeyville Fume Blanc does not overwhelm you with grapefruit and musk. Instead, the nose is dominated by pear, with melon, pear, and a little citrus on the palate.
It is on the lighter side, but that's part of what makes it so refreshing. This is a great summertime picnic wine, but would also do very well as part of a cocktail party, or with a light meal such as a salad or sandwich. And at only $10, it's a good value.

Recommended.