Saturday, July 21, 2012

Vieux Telegraphe 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape

I've long been a fan of the wines of the Southern Rhone, and Chateauneuf is the greatest of these wines, at least when it comes to reds. Of the many producers in CdP, Vieux Telegraphe is often considered one of the best, at least among the producers with large enough production that you stand a chance of getting their wine.

Add to that the 2009 vintage, one of the most highly regarded vintages for the area, and you expect an incredible wine. And it's really good, even though still very young.
On first tasting, there wasn't a lot of fruit, and little of the character that you would associate with a wine from the region. But after sitting for a day, it's really developed nicely. Lots of dried dark fruit flavors, with a wonderful spiciness, all wrapped around a backbone of tar and earthiness. This is not a subtle wine; there is a real intensity to the flavor.

The 2009 vintage was a very warm one. The result is the type of vintage that Robert Parker loves; big fruity wines with big body and high levels of alcohol (with this one clocking in at 14.5%, at least that's what's listed on the label.) The downside to all that warmth is that the grapes tend to lose more acidity, and when the acidity drops, the resulting wines tend to lose a bit of structure.

In the end, I can't help but feel slightly disappointed. Perhaps it's because I know of the reputation of this producer (and in fact, have tasted at least one previous vintage, the 2006), but it seems to be lacking the last little bit of depth that it needs to be a truly great wine. The texture is soft and voluptuous, but the flavors of the fruit seem like they should be part of a wine with a little more of an edge to it. It's not a bad thing, but just a slightly odd mis-match, that I'm guessing would not bother a lot of people. Actually, as I get closer to the bottom of the bottle, it's bothering me less and less! (I'm going to claim that this is a function of the wine breathing more).

Overall, I find the wine thoroughly enjoyable, and one that I would love to drink again, especially after it had aged a few more years. If it were a $30 or even $40 bottle, I would highly recommend it. But at $80+, I'm not quite sure that it's worth the money. Still, if you are serious about wines from the Rhone, or if your budget allows for it, this is a wine that you should at least attempt to try.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

BV Tapestry 2008

Tapestry is Beaulieu Vineyard's (BV) red wine made of all 5 Bordeaux grapes (actually, 5 of the 6; I'm still waiting for a California winery to start using Carmenere). But there's no mistaking this wine for a Bordeaux! The nose presents a lot of fruit, mostly cherry, but the fruit is matched by the vanilla and spice from the oak barrels, a level not associated with many wines from France. On the palate, after breathing for about 25 minutes, it is exhibiting the contradictory characteristics of being still very tight, but at the same time, disappointingly thin. It's not unbalanced, but there's just not a great deal going on, certainly less than you would expect for a wine selling in the $40 price range.
Hoping that it would improve with some breathing, I let it sit for another 2 hours. It's opening up a little, but still not impressive. Perhaps this is a wine that needs several years of cellaring to come into its own, but for now, it's a wine to pass on.

Not recommended.

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Chateau Puech-Haut Le Prestige 2010

The Languedoc region of France gets a bit of a bad rap, due to the huge number of less than stellar wines that are classified as Vin de Pays d'Oc (although there are plenty that are good, also!) But the Coteaux du Languedoc is another story. Only the finest soils of the region qualify, and there are strict rules on the grapes used. The wines must consist of at least 50% Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre, with any remainder being from other typical Rhone varietals.

The Chateau Puech-Haut 2010 is a great example of what the appellation can produce. Wonderful raspberry and spice on the nose, with just a hint of garrigue to make it special. And all of those flavors carry over to the palate, along with a little bit of dark fruit. While not as earthy as many Rhone wines from Gigondas or Vacqueyras, it is their equal or more in terms of body and depth. To top it off, the balance is superb, making it a great match with a nice steak (it will stand up to a ribeye off the grill), but also a great wine to drink on its on.

For any fan of big Rhone wines, this is Highly Recommended.

Monday, May 7, 2012

A Few Random Tastings - France

White Bordeaux - Ch Haut Selve 2010

The 2010 Ch Haut Selve Graves is the first wine I've tasted using the "newcomer" to Bordeaux, Sauvignon Gris, a grape nearly wiped out from phyloxria, but one that several winemakers are now starting to grow and embrace.
In this case, the blend is 50% Sauvignon (blanc), 40% Semillon, and 10% Sauvignon Gris. There is a faint hint of grapefruit, but far less than what has become all too common in Sauvignon based wines. There is also a nice bit of floral character to the nose, which I believe can be attributed to the SG. On the palate, nicely crisp and refreshing. One of the most enjoyable White Bordeaux that I have had in quite some time. And at under $16, this is a steal. Recommended.

Chateau Coulon Corbieres 2010

This is a very interesting wine. Nice black cherry/raspberry fruit, with a nice bit of spice (the write-up on the label mentions black olives; I don't get them). Moderate acidity makes this not only mouthwatering, but also a wine that begs for food. Typically, when I taste a wine, I start thinking about what foods it would pair with. In this case, before the first sip was swallowed, I was already craving a pork roast. I think that it could also work with roasted fowl, such as turkey or chicken; it might be even better with duck.
Not a wine to drink alone; but with a nice meal, recommended.

Domaine La Borie Blanche Minervois 2010

Raspberry and spice! And a little bit of earthiness. This blend of syrah and grenache is quite bold, with a refreshing tartness that reminds me fondly of the candies I loved as a child. And like those candies, a little addictive.
You can think of this basically as a Rhone style red, just a little lighter (but there is more spice and structure than you typically get from Ventoux or other lighter areas of the Rhone). This is a wine I can enjoy on its own, but it would probably be more appropriate with a meal. Pair with a nice Filet Mignon. Recommended.

Domaine Des Chenes Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2009

An odd one. Lots of garrigue on the nose (especially lavender), and a little something else I can't identify. Rather thin and tart, without much fruit. This may appeal to some palate, but not mine. Not recommended.

Cheateau Moncontour sparkling Vouvray Brut

 I've had very few sparkling Vouvray, so I'm not the best judge, but this is by far the best I have had. Good fruit, and a nice bit of toasty yeastiness. You probably won't mistake this for a Champagne, but you might mistake it for a very nice Cava. Highly recommended.

Thursday, April 26, 2012

A Rose by any other name...

As the weather gets warmer, I like to pull out the roses. To me, nothing is quite as refreshing and satisfying.

If you're one of those people scared of rose, don't be. Although it looks like those sugary sweet white Zinfandel and similar wines, rose wines are generally dry to slightly off dry, often full of fruit, and usually with enough acidity to be very crisp and refreshing.

To kick off the season, I'm tasting several:



Wolffer Estate 2011 (Long Island, NY)

The only non-French wine of the group. Very pale salmon color. Very light on the nose, hard to pick out specific aromas, but pleasant. On the palate, very light taste of tart strawberry. Not unpleasant, but nothing exciting either.


MiP* Cotes de Provence 2011

Provence is known for its roses, which are generally among the most highly regarded (along with Tavel). This is very pale in color (in fact, I've seen Pinot Grigios with more color than this!), perhaps just a little lighter than typical for a Cotes de Provence.
If I were to try this wine blindfolded, I would guess from the nose that it was a white, probably Sauvignon Blanc, due to the citrusy notes and little bit of grassiness. While not untypical for the style, this one seems a little more so than most other Provence wines that I've tried. But on the palate, it is quite surprising. A nice bit of berry fruit comes through, balancing the citrus very well (think raspberry lemonade, although it's more toward the grapefruit side), and the flavor and finish are much more than the light color leads you to expect.


Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence 2011

Another Cotes de Provence, this is more of a rosy color than salmon, with none of the citrus notes of the MiP.. Just clean crisp strawberry. More fruit than either the MiP or the Wolffer. Very nice.


Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence 2011


By both sight and smell, this wine seems to fall between the two Cotes de Provence wines, with just a little salmon color to the pink, and just a bit of citrus aroma mixing in with the red fruit. A little more acidity than the Houchart, and the most lively and flavorful so far. Very nice and refreshing; a perfect wine for a picnic or just sitting on the patio.


Raffault Chinon Rose 2011

Moving to the north of France, this Chinon has a lovely pink color, much more intense than the wines from the south. It is also the most tart. There's some nice flavor there, but to me, almost a little sour, with a bit of grapefruit coming through on the finish. The only one of the group that I have to say I don't care for; rather ironic since it is the one that I was most excited to try!


Chateau d'Oupia Minervois 2011

Back to the south, this time to the southwest appellation of Minervois. Although the nose is light, it is more berry than citrus, and drifting away from strawberry. Fairly intense fruit, this is also the sweetest of the bunch, although that is relative; if you tasted it by itself, I feel sure that you would consider it dry.

Of the bunch, my favorite is between the d'Oupia and the Bieler. I'd probably lean toward the Bieler for a picnic, and the d'Oupia for a party or similar setting.  Both are recommended. The Houchart comes in a close third.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Brigaldara Valpolicella 2010

My colleague just opened a bottle of Brigaldara Valpolicella and asked me to taste it to tell him my thoughts. (it's a tough job, but someone has to do it!)

Short story, I love it.

Longer story, this is light bodied, and only medium red in color. The type of wine that you can look at and think "Yeah, this will probably work, even though it's 90° outside". The nose is almost explosive, with bright red fruit complemented by a bit of spice (cinnamon? cloves?) On the palate, it is very nice, with a bracing acidity that makes it very refreshing, and calls out for food, although it still drinks well enough on its own to just enjoy a glass. In fact, my comment was that it might be hard coming up with a food pairing, because it's so delicious by itself. But I think something along the lines of a nicely marinated flank steak, or perhaps a skirt steak off the grill would be a wonderful match. But if you want to pair it with a pizza, I think it would be a great fit there as well.

Highly recommended

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

A few Barberas

My new job has had the consequence of getting to taste many wines, but lack of time to write about them. So I'll post just a few of the recent highlights among some Barberas, from both Italy and California.

Seghesio Alexander Vally Barbera 2009 - Very big and bold; I could quickly pinpoint this as being a California wine, but the flavor is not what I expect from a Barbera. Good, but not great.

Ruvei Barbera d'Alba 2008 - Very different from the Seghesio. Medium full body, but intense flavor. Very clean fruit. Pretty much what I expect from a good Barbera, and my overall favorite of the lot.

Gaitu Barbera Colli Tortonesi 2006 - Another very different expression of what can be done with the Barbera grape. Body wis similar to the Ruvei, and while it was identifiable as a Barbera, it is less fruity, and has a very nice earthy quality to it. Very good, and only slightly behind the Ruvei in my ranking, although with the right food (think anything with mushrooms or similar flavor) this one would be the better choice.

Monday, March 26, 2012

San Vicente Rioja - 2004

I'm not sure what to expect from this wine; the label gives great detail about the winemaking (22 days of skin contact maceration, etc.), but says nothing about the aging.
The nose is rich with dried cherries, and just a hint of barnyard. On the palate, it is practically explosive with dried cherries, and a bit of tart spiciness. And unlike many modern Spanish reds that I've had, the oak contributes to the structure without giving it an overbearing taste of vanilla.
If there is a drawback to this wine, it is the high alcohol, at 14.5%. While I think it handles it currently, this wine seems to already be showing some nice age, and I don't know if it will support the alcohol if it is allowed to age more than another year or two. (But I look forward to tasting it again to find out!)

Still, a pretty nice wine, showing a nice level of maturity.

Recommended for those seeking a drier "Old World" style red.

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

More from Bolero Snort

I reviewed a few beers from Bolero Snort last May in this post. I was recently able to sample a few more beers, which are approaching final recipes.

First up was There's No Ryeing in Basebull. This is to be one of the flagship beers once production begins. A nice golden color, very well balanced, with a very pleasant spiciness from the rye. For my palate, this will be a great summertime beer, although it's darker and heavier than what most people would think of as a summer beer. And at 4.9%, I can drink several of them. Very refreshing.
There was no batch number on this bottle. Perhaps that means that this is the final version, or perhaps not. But I think that it's ready to go.

Blackhorn, a black IPA, is the other flagship beer. Pitch black in color, with a creamy head, this looks like a stout. But unlike a stout, the flavor emphasis is not so much on the roasted malt, but on the hops. Bob warned me that this was an experiment that didn't work out, using a different hop at one point. But it still tasted pretty good, with enough hoppiness to count as an IPA without going overboard; there was just a slight "green" taste that I believe is from the hop that will not be used again. 6.1%, this was batch #62.

Gingerbull Cookie is a possible seasonal beer that may be produced. Deep brown color, with a definite ginger-snap aroma on the nose. There is a nice bit of malt, but the ginger and the hops seem to blend seamlessly as a counterbalance. And while the thought of a cookie might make you think "sweet", this quaff is refreshingly dry. I could easily drink this beer on a regular basis, but I think that it might be more interesting with just a little more of the ginger-snap flavor (but not too much), perhaps balanced out by a little more malt and alcohol. Batch #61; 5.0%

Wee Heifer's Fruitcake, based on the "Wee Heifer" Wee Heavy. From the bottle "Spiced with everything that makes the holidays right - then ferment on top of loads of dried cherries, Himalayan figs, and golden hunza raisins before finishing it in some bourbon barrels". A nice reddish brown, with a smooth tan head. There's so much going on with the aroma that I don't know where to begin describing it. On the palate, it's an explosion of flavor. Lots of fruit, with cherries coming through nicely, but it still keeps the malt character of a good Scottish "Wee Heavy" (and clocking in at 8.9%, it is true to the style). I can't tell what part of the flavor comes from what component, but the result is a masterpiece. I think this is my favorite of all the Bolero Snort beers I've tried; not surprising as I generally like the stronger brews.

Overall, I'm impressed with all of these beers. As I noted before, the brewer seems to be going for enjoyable beers instead of trying to show off how extreme he can make them. He seems to have overcome the carbonation problems that affected the previous beers that I tried. And best of all, the legal paperwork has progressed, and we might just get to see these beers in production soon!

Sunday, February 26, 2012

More Paso Robles Zin - Sextant 2009

Since the Twisted Sisters zin opened my eyes to Paso Robles zinfandels, I was excited to try the offering from Sextant, also from Paso Robles.
It's not quite up to the Twisted Sisters offering (of course, that may be the different vintage), it's not disappointing. Lots of very rich fruit, with a nice spiciness. A little more red fruit than the Twisted Sisters, and just a touch lighter, but that's not a negative. I think that the Sextant may be a better match for foods, especially a nice steak, as it's powerful enough to stand up to strong flavors, but not so intense to overwhelm them.

If you are drinking it alone, and can get it, go for the Twisted Sisters 2008. But if you can't find it, or want a great zin to go with a steak (and probably also with Turkish kebabs), the Sextant is fantastic.

Highly recommended.

Sunday, January 29, 2012

Palmeri Napa Valley Chardonnay 2010

I have to be honest; I'm not a big chardonnay fan, so unless it is exceptionally good, I have a hard time getting excited.
The Palmeri Chardonnay is a classic example of California chard fermented and/or aged in oak (there is no indication on the bottle as to how this one was produced). Good fruit, well balanced oak, and just enough creaminess from malolactic fermentation to keep it from being sharp.

If you're like your Chards oaky, this is a good one. But if you're looking for something with a lot of buttery creaminess, or a wine that is very elegant, you will likely be disappointed. That said, I would say that at $20, the Palmeri is a good value, although for my personal tastes, I'd go with the more elegant and less oaky Sonoma Loeb, or perhaps a Pouilly Fuisse.

Recommended for those looking for a rich oaky California Chard.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

J.V. Fleury Cairanne - 2009

Great vintage, respected producer, highly regarded area. But the wine is very disappointing.

A bit of raspberry and a faint hint of vanilla on the nose, on the palate a bit of spice and earth, but nothing special. And the finish fades in about 5 seconds. This would be a decent Cotes du Rhone at around $10 or less, but as a declared village and a >$15 pricetag, it's just not up to it. And it certainly doesn't seem to have the body that would be indicated by the 14.0% abv. listed on the label.

I've wondered at times why Rasteau was promoted to AOC status but Cairanne was not, as I've always felt the two villages were of comparable quality. Perhaps wines like this from Cairanne are the reason.

Even though I feel that Rhone wines represent some of the best values, this wine simply does not live up to it. Unless you find it on sale for a deep discount, not recommended.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Barossa Shiraz 2009

In keeping with Aussie theme (despite the tennis not being on until 11:00), I'm having the newest vintage of one of my favorite big Shirazes. Thorn-Clarke makes several levels of Shiraz, with Shotfire being in the middle of the range, selling for around $20.
2009 was a very hot year in much of South Australia, and it shows in this wine. Clocking in at 14.8% abv, it is intense and full bodied. But despite the heat, the winemaker managed to keep the acidity at a proper level, as this has a near perfect balance.

Rich raspberry and blackberry fruit with a bit of spice gives way to a wonderful coffee to not-quite cocoa finish. A very good example of what I expect out of a Barossa Shiraz. I just wish I had a nice steak to go with it!

Recommended.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Calcareous Twisted Sisters Paso Robles Cabernet 2008

After trying the Twisted Sisters Zinfandel a few days ago, I was looking forward to trying their Cabernet. I wish I had tried them in the opposite order; the cab is very nice, but not to the level of the zinfandel.

A very good example of what a Paso Robles Cabernet can be. Good fruit, a little spice, and the earth and tar undertones that make Paso Robles unique. And enough body and richness to handle the 14.2% abv with no problem.

If you like Paso Robles cabs, like J. Lohr or Coastline, this is a wine you should try, especially with a nice steak from the grill.

Recommended.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Elderton Barossa Cabernet 2006 - Australia

Tasting the 2006 Elderton Cabernet makes me think that 2006 must have been a tough year in Barossa. How else to explain a producer as good as Elderton making such a wine? There's a bit of nice fruit up front, but the balance is a little off, with the acidity punching through, and the fruit fades quickly. The finish is very short, perhaps 5 seconds or so. Lighter than I would expect for a wine of 14.5% abv, there is nothing objectionable about this wine, but nothing exciting either. It's the type of wine I might expect at a party or art opening, but very disappointing for a bottle costing $20.

Looking up the vintage on Parker's website, he rates the vintage as very good, although possibly still tannic. This is not coming across tannic, just weak (but at least it's not sweet like so many Aussie wines!). I'm left wondering what went wrong. Is it a bad bottle? It doesn't show an obvious flaw, just seems like a weak wine. Is Parker wrong? Well, I've disagreed with him in the past, but a good Barossa is right up his alley, so I expect his opinion to be at least close. Or did Elderton just not get it right? Hard to believe from a winery that's done so well in the past.

I've liked Elderton wines in the past, and while this would be good for a sub $10 bottle, at $20-$25, it's very disappointing. Not recommended.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Finca Flichman Barrancas Syrah blend 2007

I've long been a fan of Finca Flichman, but this is the first time I've tried their flagship Syrah based blend. I was not disappointed.
Like their other flagship wines (Tupengato and Dedicato), this is a very full bodied intense wine. Blackberry and blueberry are the dominate fruit flavors, but the fruit is secondary to the vanilla and chocolate, which is unusual in being evident in the mid palate, not just the finish.
Oddly, I enjoyed the wine greatly, finding it rich, smooth, and full of fruit and other great flavors, but my wife, who normally likes big full wines, did not care for it, saying it tasted like "tart cherries". Perhaps this is just a little too "old world" style for her tastes, although I find it very unlike a Rhone style wine (but equally unlike an Aussie Shiraz).
I've long joked that Argentina is good at growing two things, grapes and cows; and their wines work great with beef. But the extra bit of earthiness in the Barrancas may make it also work very well with a hearty pork dish.

Whether you want an earthier more complex alternative to an Aussie Shiraz, or just like rich full bodied wines in general, this is one that I can recommend.

Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Calcareous Twisted Sisters Zinfandel from Paso Robles

In the past, I've been known to say "I've never found a Zin from Paso Robles that was any good; it's Cab territory". Well, never again. Not only is the Calcareous Twisted Sisters better than any other Zin I've had from Paso Robles, it's one of the best Zins I've ever tasted.
Rich fruit, very full bodied, but velvety smooth. Blackberries and vanilla, with just a bit of spice and pepper. The incredibly long finish (nearly 2 minutes!) has notes of chocolate that evolve into a hint of dried tobacco. It's a magical wine, one that is almost difficult to comprehend.

Although I typically drink wine by itself rather than with a meal, I try to think of what foods would match well with the wine I'm drinking. In this case, that's quite hard, because I think even a filet mignon would tend to detract from the beauty of this wine (although the filet would be greatly enhanced!) This is a wine that, even though it could add to just about any meal, may be best enjoyed on its own.

If this was a $35 bottle, I would recommend it. At around $20, it's a steal.

Very highly recommended.