Monday, March 28, 2011

Petite Sirah - 2009 Cloudbreak

Cloudbreak is one of those new budget labels that has appeared lately, selling in the $7-8 range. I had tried the Chardonnay, and found it enjoyable, if nothing special, so I decided that the Petite Sirah would be worth a try, especially since the wife likes full bodied reds, and Petite Sirah should be right up that alley.

My first surprise was seeing the alcohol percentage. At only 12.5%, it's at least a point and a half lower than any Petite Sirah that I've had in the past. The next surprise was the nose; lots of red fruits, mainly raspberry, with a hint of raisin. Nice aroma, but not what I expect out of a Petite Sirah.
On the palate, it's quite nice, if simple; and at this point, I'm no longer surprised that it's not like most Petite Sirahs that I've had. Body wise, it's fairly light, on par with many of the Pinot Noirs that I've had. In fact, if it were not for the raisiny notes, this could pass as a slightly odd Pinot.
As can be expected for a wine of this price, it's rather simple, and has a finish that lasts only a few seconds. Unlike many wines of this price, it's not very sweet, but only slightly off-dry.

Cloudbreak Petite Sirah drinks pretty well on it's on as a light quaffer, but I think that it would shine with burgers and dogs off the grill, or other similar flavorful but unimposing foods. However, I don't think it would stand up to Turkish or Indian meals; foods that I often turn to a Petite Sirah to accompany.

I gave this a low score of 81, but mainly because of the light body and short finish. The actual taste is quite good, and if you're looking for a light fruity but not sweet wine for a great price, this is a good go-to wine. But if you're looking for a rich full-bodied Petite Sirah, you're better off with something like the Martin Family or Foppiano.

Recommended with the above conditions.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Mt. Monster Shiraz from Australia 2009

Being a Shiraz fan, I was excited to try the Mt Monster Shiraz from the Limestone Coast area of Australia. I tend to like many of the Shirazes from the Limestone Coast area, and one of my favorites, Jip Jip Rocks, is actually shown on the map on the label for where this winery is located. I don't know if there is a relationship or not; perhaps they just want to create a connection in the mind of the buyer (if that's the plan, it worked on me!)

Sadly, this wine did not quite live up to my expectations. It is good, with a powerful nose, full of raspberry, currant, vanilla, and a touch of spice (all typical of Limestone Coast Shiraz), and quite smooth on the palate, with just a hint of blueberry. The balance is fine, and the medium-full body and long finish are about what you would expect at the $13 price. But it lacks complexity; after the first glass, it becomes somewhat dull and boring. Nothing bad about it, but nothing to get excited about either.

I'm hoping that this is a factor of the vintage. 2009 was a very difficult vintage, with extreme heat across much of southern Australia, and a few wineries destroyed by wildfires (and very sadly, at least four winemakers died in the flames). The lack of depth could easily be a result of grapes that ripened too quickly due to the high heat. I'll certainly try this wine again with the 2010 vintage, but for now, if I want a Shiraz from the Limestone Coast area, I'll spend the extra couple of bucks and get the Jip Jip Rocks, at least as long as I can get the 2008 vintage.

Given the fruit, this would be a decent wine to have for a party, where there are other wines to drink as well. But if you are planning on drinking more than a glass or so, I really can't recommend it. A shame, because it's close to being a really good wine, just lacking the complexity to keep it interesting.

Not recommended.

Friday, March 18, 2011

Kinneybrook Chardonnay 2009

Kinneybrook is a line of wines made by the Kunde family of the Sonoma Valley. The Kunde family has been making wine for over 100 years, in one of the most beautiful estates in California. The Kinneybrook wines are made from one parcel of their estate (and like all of the Kunde wines, it is 100% estate grown).

The Kinneybrook chard has a very nice nose, with aromas of pear and magnolia. On the palate, there is a nice taste of peach, with just a slight hint of a lemony citrus to balance it out. With just enough malolactic fermentation to smooth it out, but not enough to give it a noticable creamyness, the Kinneybrook hits a very nice level of elegance, with enough minerality showing through to give it some real character. And for those who think that California Chardonnays are too oaky, this one will show you that when properly used, a little oak can be very nice without being overwhelming.

A very pleasant wine, and a good example of the elegance that seems much more common from Sonoma than from Napa. Great on it's own, or a good match with a roasted chicken. For $15, it drinks very well, on par with some wines costing much more.

Recommended. I gave it 87 points.

Thursday, March 17, 2011

More Torrontes from Argentina

Since the weather is getting a little warmer, tonight I tried the Mendoza Station Seleccion Especial Torrontes 2010. This is a brand that is produced for Total Wine, and as far as I know, is not available elsewhere (although it wouldn't surprise me if the same wine is sold under other names as well; it's produced by Trapiche IIRC).

I'm a fan of the regular Mendoza Station, which at $6, is a great value for a nice summertime wine. So I was looking forward to trying their premium product. The nose is an intense burst of lime, and hint of orange, and something I couldn't quite put my finger on.
The palate is more lime, with a lot of mango or similar tropical flavor. But when well chilled, the acidity is a little strong. Turns out that this wine is balanced for, and has the body to support, a considerably warmer drinking temperature than it's lower priced companion. At the temperature that I would normally reserve for a nice white Burgundy, it's drinking pretty well (I'm guessing that it's currently well over 50F).

Since I tend to drink my torrontes alone or with something like a salad, I prefer it on the more chilled side. But I think that this one would be a good match for shellfish, where the extra acidity is a good thing, or perhaps on a picnic where you might not be able to keep it super-chilled. But in other cases, I'll stick to the previously reviewed La Vuelta, which is a little softer, and the same $8 price.

Recommended with shellfish or similar food (or when you can't keep it cold); otherwise, not recommended. 82 points (although that was with it too cold; maybe 85 warmer)

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Beer for Lent - Double Bock (Doppelbock) - Spaten Optimator

It's a funny thing. I'm not at all religious; but when springtime starts to roll around, nothing feels more right than to drink a few German Double Bock beers. Double bock beers (Doppelbock in German) were first created in the 17th century by the Paulaner monks as something to help them get through the Lenten fasts. They named their beer "Salvator" (or "Savior"). Other beers of the style have adopted the -ator suffix on their name as a tribute to the original.
This is a style of beer that is very malty, very rich, low in bitterness, and rather high in alcohol level. While my favorite is the Aynger Celebrator, I find the Spaten Optimator a close second, and since it is about half the price of the Aynger product, Spaten is my usual choice. The Salvator, while the original, I find a little lighter and less satisfying than the Spaten or Aynger. There are also double bock beers brewed in other parts of the world, especially the US, usually identifiable by the -ator suffix; but in my opinion, few of these come close to measuring up to the Bavarian beers. The US beers especially are typically too hoppy for the style, and some of them are actually brewed as ales, not as a lager like the original and other Bavarian examples.

A typical Bavarian doppelbock is fairly dark in color, and hits the palate with a powerful malty sweetness. It's hard to describe the flavor in terms other than malt; they typically are not overly complex, but they make up for that in raw power. With a good example of the style, the sweetness is countered on the finish by just enough hops to balance it out to a semi-dryness, without enough to give any sort of bitterness; although in fact the hop level is actually substantial, it's not enough to overwhelm the malt.

As you might expect for a beer that was created to help get through a fast, doppelbocks tend to be best consumed by themselves. I've found few foods that truly work well with them, and they are so rich that you really don't need much else to fill you up anyway. 

Whether you're fasting for Lent, preparing for Passover, or just enjoying the change in weather, I suggest you try a Doppelbock from Germany. Lighter than a stout or porter, they make a nice transition toward the lighter beers you might enjoy during summer. Just be warned; while they are a little lighter in body than a stout, they are about 25% higher in calories than Guinness, and at a typical 7.5% abv, they can sneak up on you, especially since they are typically so smooth and easy to drink.

Sunday, March 6, 2011

Sauternes

Carmes de Rieussec is the second label of Ch. Rieussec, one of the top dessert wines out of Bordeaux (and currently owned by Ch Lafite). Since the top label is fairly expensive, I decided to see how the second label tastes, as at $20, it's one of the more affordable Sauternes. I tasted the 2007 vintage, which was a pretty good year for the area.

This is a beauty in the glass, with a rich golden color. On the nose, it exhibits the honeysuckle that you expect with a botrytis affected wine, but also a bit of petrol that I would expect more from a Mosel Valley Reisling. There is also a hint of spices like cinnamon and nutmeg along with a bit of something somewhere between vanilla and caramel.

On the palate, the flavors match the nose, with some nice apple/pear fruit flavors. In short, it's like a liquid apple pie. A fair amount of complexity; not as much as some other Sauternes that I've had, but then again, it's much more affordable. And in fact, I think it's better than some Sauternes I've tasted that cost twice as much!

A note on food pairings; the temptation with a "dessert wine" is to combine it with a traditional dessert. But this often clashes, as whichever one is sweeter will cause the other to taste flat. I've had good luck with dishes like Creme Brulee (where it is more of the fattiness that the sweetness that makes it so yummy), but with sweeter dishes like apple pie, it just doesn't work.
The classic pairing is foie gras, but I can't say how that works, as I've never even tasted foie gras. In my opinion, with a good dessert wine, it's often best to drink it AS dessert, rather than WITH dessert.

Overall, a decent if not exceptional Sauternes, but excellent for the value.

Recommended

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Douro

Tonight I'm enjoying a bottle of Quinta de Ventozelo Touriga Nacional. This is a dry red made by a high quality Porto producer, using only the finest grape allowed in Port.

But it's not like a Port. It's rich, with the restrained fruit that you might find in a wine from the Rhone. Flavors of cherry and currant, with a little touch of dark fruit, are accented on the finish by a nice touch of chocolate and a bit of dried fig and earthiness. A delightful, if somewhat unusual, wine. I think this would work well with a nice pork dish, or as a cocktail wine with a cheese plate.

Highly recommended.